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Alarms and Excursions in Arabia
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An interesting and entertaining Post-war (WWI) personal account and military history (and travel memoir) of a British Officer in the Middle East including Oman and Dhufar. Illustrated. Sectioned off in the following "adventures": A Punitive Expedition Against Marsh Arabs; As District Officer int he Mesopotamian Insurrection of 1920; Camel Journeys in and ABout the Sultanate of Oman; War Drums in Musandam; Pages From My South Arabian Diary
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Product details
Hardcover: 296 pages
Publisher: Bobbs-Merrill; [1st. ed.] edition (1931)
Language: English
ASIN: B00085G7ZE
Shipping Weight: 3 pounds
Average Customer Review:
5.0 out of 5 stars
3 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#1,759,917 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
Arabia has been a significant part of my life. I lived there for over two decades, during a period of its rapid economic and social transformation. I’ve read a number of accounts written by the Western travelers/explorers who ventured into “Al Jazeera†before the “black gold†transformed it, and these include Wilfred Thesiger, Sir Richard Burton, Charles Doughty, T.E. Lawrence, and Freya Stark. The two that I admire most are Gertrude Bell and Bertram Thomas. Their erudition and balanced outlook are both astonishing and humbling. I deeply regret “discovering†Thomas only after I finally left Arabia, hopefully not for the last time, in 2003. His knowledge, insights, balance, and accomplishments are superior to the more famous Wilfred Thesiger. Thomas was the first known Westerner to cross the Rub al Khali (the Empty Quarter), which he accomplished in 1930-31. His account of that crossing, Arabia Felix: Across the Empty Quarter of Arabia, I’ve recently read and reviewed.The title to this work is a bit of a misnomer. The first third of the book covers Thomas’ experiences in modern day southern Iraq, in the marshes that have now been largely drained. (One of Thesiger’s most impressive books is The Marsh Arabs (Penguin Classics), which includes some excellent pictures of this country). Thomas was part of the Mesopotamia campaign during the First World War and would serve as a political officer in the newly created state of Iraq in the immediate post-war period. “Alarms†is also a bit of a misnomer for the latter two thirds of the book, (much the work of Gertrude Bell) in which he documents his time in Oman, from 1925-32, working with Sultan Taimur bin Faisal. The Sultan would abdicate in order to marry a Japanese woman. His first son, Said, would take over, and rule, until he was overthrown in 1970, by his son, Sayyid Qaboos, who still rules today, a remarkable record of longevity in power, anywhere.No question, Thomas was part of the colonialist project, the old-fashioned kind, exemplified by the British Empire, as opposed to more new-fangled versions of the IMF, and the World Bank, and drone justice. Much of the first part of the book concerns the “intransigence†of Shaikh Badr bin Rumaiyidh, who would not “submit,†and recognize the benefits of “Pax Britannica.†Thomas felt no qualms about obtaining such a “submission.†The older I get, I tend to take a more nuanced view of such an attitude. Britain was – temporarily – replacing Turkish colonialism. And the Turks only “took.†For submission and taxation, the Brits did give back roads, telegraphs, schools, and mainly, a serious attenuation to endemic tribal fighting, a prime cause of the refugee crisis of today. Overall, it must have been there, but Thomas does not display that grating “the WOGS begin at Calais†attitude. The tribes did revolt against British rule however; and he does not mention the aerial bombing campaign against the tribes that even Winston Churchill called a crime.In Oman, Thomas can ride a camel, and does he ever, without complaining. A polymath, curious about all matters of his environment. He knows the names of the birds and plants. He has a feel for the topography and the weather. He is fluent in Arabic and can detect variances in dialect. His account is a fine ethnographic study, as well. And he knows his history. He looks at the slavery practiced in Oman, noting it is mainly of the domestic variety, and like Fredrick Engels before him, compares it to the evils of the Industrial Revolution, and being a “prole†at the bottom of the heap. He knows his tribes, as well as what version of Islam they adhere to.Thomas resonates, since he has that incorrigible need to see what is around the next corner in the road. His first trip is with the Sultan of Muscat, in the late ‘20’s, both on camels, with a substantial entourage. They travel north from Muscat, through the rich agricultural district of the Batinah Coast to Suhar (spelled Sahar in Thomas’ account). He undertakes a second trip, inland, through the Hajar Mountains, towards the much fought over Burami Oasis, to Sharjah, on the coast, in modern day the UAE. It takes him 22 days. He notes the long influence and dominance of the “people of the West,†meaning the Wahabis from modern day Saudi Arabia, even noting that the mid-19th century invasion of the Arabian heartland by the Egyptians gave the people around Buraimi “forty years of respite†from their rule. And he foreshadows his Rub Al Khali trip when he notes a northern spur of sand from there and uses the phrase “provokingly unexplored.â€William Palgrave had explored central Arabia in the mid-19th century. Thomas both notes, as well as excuses, some of the inaccuracies in his account by saying that he did not use a “camera†to make his observations, but rather a “palate and a brush.â€Thomas travels north of Suhar into the tobacco growing region (!) of Shamaliyah, to the point where the Hajar mountains touch the sea (and is the current border, roughly, with the UAE). The “wild†people of Musandam, the very northern peninsula that is the southern shore of the straits of Hormuz, are described, along with a prototypical example of British “gunboat diplomacyâ€, which successfully forced “submission†to the Sultan in Muscat. The last chapter covers another fascinating camel trip from Suwaih, the far eastern corner of Oman, along the coast of the Indian ocean, to Dhufar, a trip I envy, and regret not making when I had the chance.Overall, Bertram Thomas is a perceptive observer, who got out of the proverbial armchair, and the pukka club, and saw the country around him, and has provided us a wonderful historical record. 5-stars, plus.
Very good book
Arabia has been a significant part of my life. I lived there for over two decades, during a period of its rapid economic and social transformation. I’ve read a number of accounts written by the Western travelers/explorers who ventured into “Al Jazeera†before the “black gold†transformed it, and these include Wilfred Thesiger, Sir Richard Burton, Charles Doughty, T.E. Lawrence, and Freya Stark. The two that I admire most are Gertrude Bell and Bertram Thomas. Their erudition and balanced outlook are both astonishing and humbling. I deeply regret “discovering†Thomas only after I finally left Arabia, hopefully not for the last time, in 2003. His knowledge, insights, balance, and accomplishments are superior to the more famous Wilfred Thesiger. Thomas was the first known Westerner to cross the Rub al Khali (the Empty Quarter), which he accomplished in 1930-31. His account of that crossing, (Arabia Felix), I’ve recently read and reviewed.The title to this work is a bit of a misnomer. The first third of the book covers Thomas’ experiences in modern day southern Iraq, in the marshes that have now been largely drained. (One of Thesiger’s most impressive books is (The Marsh Arabs), which includes some excellent pictures of this country). Thomas was part of the Mesopotamia campaign during the First World War and would serve as a political officer in the newly created state of Iraq in the immediate post-war period. “Alarms†is also a bit of a misnomer for the latter two thirds of the book, (much the work of Gertrude Bell) in which he documents his time in Oman, from 1925-32, working with Sultan Taimur bin Faisal. The Sultan would abdicate in order to marry a Japanese woman. His first son, Said, would take over, and rule, until he was overthrown in 1970, by his son, Sayyid Qaboos, who still rules today, a remarkable record of longevity in power, anywhere.No question, Thomas was part of the colonialist project, the old-fashioned kind, exemplified by the British Empire, as opposed to more new-fangled versions of the IMF, and the World Bank, and drone justice. Much of the first part of the book concerns the “intransigence†of Shaikh Badr bin Rumaiyidh, who would not “submit,†and recognize the benefits of “Pax Britannica.†Thomas felt no qualms about obtaining such a “submission.†The older I get, I tend to take a more nuanced view of such an attitude. Britain was – temporarily – replacing Turkish colonialism. And the Turks only “took.†For submission and taxation, the Brits did give back roads, telegraphs, schools, and mainly, a serious attenuation to endemic tribal fighting, a prime cause of the refugee crisis of today. Overall, it must have been there, but Thomas does not display that grating “the WOGS begin at Calais†attitude. The tribes did revolt against British rule however; and he does not mention the aerial bombing campaign against the tribes that even Winston Churchill called a crime.In Oman, Thomas can ride a camel, and does he ever, without complaining. A polymath, curious about all matters of his environment. He knows the names of the birds and plants. He has a feel for the topography and the weather. He is fluent in Arabic and can detect variances in dialect. His account is a fine ethnographic study, as well. And he knows his history. He looks at the slavery practiced in Oman, noting it is mainly of the domestic variety, and like Fredrick Engels before him, compares it to the evils of the Industrial Revolution, and being a “prole†at the bottom of the heap. He knows his tribes, as well as what version of Islam they adhere to.Thomas resonates, since he has that incorrigible need to see what is around the next corner in the road. His first trip is with the Sultan of Muscat, in the late ‘20’s, both on camels, with a substantial entourage. They travel north from Muscat, through the rich agricultural district of the Batinah Coast to Suhar (spelled Sahar in Thomas’ account). He undertakes a second trip, inland, through the Hajar Mountains, towards the much fought over Burami Oasis, to Sharjah, on the coast, in modern day the UAE. It takes him 22 days. He notes the long influence and dominance of the “people of the West,†meaning the Wahabis from modern day Saudi Arabia, even noting that the mid-19th century invasion of the Arabian heartland by the Egyptians gave the people around Buraimi “forty years of respite†from their rule. And he foreshadows his Rub Al Khali trip when he notes a northern spur of sand from there and uses the phrase “provokingly unexplored.â€William Palgrave had explored central Arabia in the mid-19th century. Thomas both notes, as well as excuses, some of the inaccuracies in his account by saying that he did not use a “camera†to make his observations, but rather a “palate and a brush.â€Thomas travels north of Suhar into the tobacco growing region (!) of Shamaliyah, to the point where the Hajar mountains touch the sea (and is the current border, roughly, with the UAE). The “wild†people of Musandam, the very northern peninsula that is the southern shore of the straits of Hormuz, are described, along with a prototypical example of British “gunboat diplomacyâ€, which successfully forced “submission†to the Sultan in Muscat. The last chapter covers another fascinating camel trip from Suwaih, the far eastern corner of Oman, along the coast of the Indian ocean, to Dhufar, a trip I envy, and regret not making when I had the chance.Overall, Bertram Thomas is a perceptive observer, who got out of the proverbial armchair, and the pukka club, and saw the country around him, and has provided us a wonderful historical record. 5-stars, plus.
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